Kathmandu appartment building

Kathmandu appartment building
Originally uploaded by nick_hardcastle

27 June 2008. Kathmandu

Nepal’s octogenarian prime-minister resigned yesterday, although constitutionally this won’t be official until the Constituent Assembly chooses a president. With the Maoist Party winning the most seats in the general election and the king ‘voluntarily’ leaving his palace, Nepal’s politics are in a state of uncertainty. The waiters and drivers I have spoken to so far say that everything is OK but complain about the strikes that have been taking place and the disruption caused by different groups wanting to make their demands heard.

I had lunch with Yankila Sherpa, the former Minister for Tourism. She is worried about the future of tourist trade in Nepal.

I returned to Kathmandu after lunch. I’d been looking forward to my time relaxing there, but I found myself bored by the tourist shops and the constat greetings from people wanting to sell me something or take me somewhere. I went for a beer in Pilgrim’s Bookstore. This naturally led to along afternoon nap, following which I qwent for another walk. Again I found myself bored and disinterested in Thamel, thinking that it was much more fun when I was here with the kids.

I rediscovered Pumpernickle, a small bakery in Thamel that makes excellent bagel sandwiches. I’m sure that this place moves from day to day, as I only ever find it by chance. After the substantial dhal bhat that Yankila had served, a bagel was all I needed for dinner. They had sold out. Disgruntled, I walked down the road to look for a restaurant with a bakery overlooking the busy streets. There were several, but only one with seats available. I walked up the rickety staircase - God help the people of Kathmandu if there is ever an earthquake here, building standards, if they exist at all, are woefully inadequate or totally ignored. The view was good, but the blue loud of cigarette smoke that hung over the tables was quite intollerable. I walked out and returned to Pilgrim’s Bookstore to take up my favourite seat i the antiquarian book room. After ten minutes the waiter brought me a menu. Fifteen minutes later he still hadn’t come to take my order, so I put my shoes back on and prepared to leave. At this point he returned to ask me what I wanted, oblivious to the fact that I was packing my books up in order to leave.
“If it takes you 25 minutes just to take my order, how long will I have to wait for food?” I asked, carefully keeping any hint of irritation from my voice.
“But sir, you didn’t tell me that you wanted anything.”
“What did you want me to do, shout? Walk into the kitchen? Ring a gong?” He looked wounded and rather shocked. Irritated, I retreated to the expensive pizza restaurant near the Kathmandu Guesthouse. There at least I could expect a fairly good atmosphere and reasonable service.

Midway through a quite delicious burger, the waitress suddenly grabbed my table and pulled it away from me. I yanked it back, swallowing quickly.
“What are you doing?”
“Sorry sir, I am just moving your table”, stating the obvious as she started pulling it away again. I shouted something at her that she didn’t understand and maintained a firm hold on the legs until she conceded defeat.