Kathmandu arrival

When we bring the kids to Nepal it is essential that we tell them to hang on to t heir own bags at all times -- the friendly gentlemen that want to help you don't work for Snow Leopard but are avid tip collectors. I was reminded of the day we arrived in Darjeeling and was met by a group of men claiming to be World Expeditions representatives. The bus certainly got loaded quickly, although at the cost of almost US$100.

The ride into Kathmandu, through narrow roads clogged with traffic and past cows scratching themselves against anything that would stay still long enough, was one of the 'arrival' journeys in Asia that puts a smile on my face. There was so much going on, so much to look at, that I felt that I should be constantly questioning the guide. LuAnne would, I thought to myself, be chatting constantly, asking questions at the rate of machine gun fire and only half listening to the answers. Instead, I sat back in my seat and watched as everything went by.

The Hotel Thamel is slightly more up market than a backpackers in that it purports to be a hotel, complete with a helpful receptionist and a restaurant of sorts. My room smelled damp, but was clean. I don't think that the kids are going to be very impressed, but it is about the right level for a trekking holiday. Not that we wouldn't enjoy a 5* hotel of course, but given the level of the lodges on the trail to Everest Base Camp, there is no point setting initial standards too high.

My telephone wouldn't work so the hotel receptionist arranged for me to purchase a local SIM card. Ten dollars and half an hour later and I was reconnected, but still unable to send text messages. International calls via this SIM were also prohibitively expensive, but it did at least mean that Snow Leopard could get in touch with me easily, which was to prove convenient.

Samden, the son of the owner of Snow Leopard, recommended that I ate in the Thamel Restaurant, by which I thought he meant the hotel restaurant. When it was too late, I realised that he meant the much more interesting restaurant across the road. Still the hotel restaurant wasn't bad and the vegetable Jalfrezi was delicious. Following two bottles of Elephant Beer, or was it Everest Beer, I can't remember, I could hardly focus and finished this entry with one eye closed.

The Hotel Thamel
As an experienced budget traveler, the Hotel Thamel is about what I was expecting: basic, fairly clean and occupying that niche between a real budget place and a proper hotel. The kids are not going to be impressed though. The place has a damp smell -- there is no heating, the table cloths are a little stained, my toilet ran all night -- there is no cistern, just a tap with a washer than needs replacing, and the shower doesn't drain properly. Not that I am complaining, you understand.

Breakfast cornflakes with piping hot milk in a jug that directed its flow anywhere but the dish, a long guttural hoooichh (thankfully without accompanying spit) in the kitchen and the dining room was suddenly filled with the voices of excited and nervous teenagers. There was nobody there, but I could see our party already with Kaz telling everybody that it isn't so bad and that there is a turd floating in his toilet. There will be quiet students too. Those who have never eaten anything as strange as cornflakes manqué softened with boiled milk, and who are wondering if they are going to be able to cope so far away from home.

The water isn't safe to drink. I was advised to clean my teeth with bottled water and to keep my mouth shut whilst showering. I wonder how many of the kids will forget.

Packing
On opening my kit bag I was impressed by how fresh it smelled. More like an alpine meadow than a sweaty, well-muscled Kenyan porter. Although I have washed the bag several times and used it on three trips since I climbed Mt Kenya, the bag still has a decidedly mach aura. Thanks to the burst deoderant bottle, the inside of the bag at least, now smells much fresher. putting things in ziplock bags is a great idea, especially if you remember to seal them.